Crack Climbing - Interview with Roger Schäli and Christoph Hainz

Test of Endurance on El Capitan - USA Boulder Trip

The Zion National Park in Utah, the Redrock Canyon National Conservation Area, the Buttermilk Boulders and the Yosemite National Park – the mere mention of these names is enough to unleash a longing in every ambitious climber to go to the United States.
Roger Schäli and Christoph Hainz from the SALEWA alpineXtrem Team have turned the dream into reality: Over the course of four weeks, the two extreme climbers tackled a number of highly challenging routes including Moonlight Buttress (5.9 C2) in the Zion National Park and Seperate Reality (5.12a) in Yosemite National Park.

LOCATION 1: ZION NATIONALPARK - Moonlight Buttress
Right now the cliffs in Zion National Park are shining in a spectactular reddish brown light. Christoph Hainz and Roger Schäli from the alpineXtrem Team are facing the best conditions to free climb the iconic Moonlight Buttress. The demanding route is graded at 5.9 C2. Climbing is not made easier by the heat and the narrow fissures. But it’s ok to suffer a little when climbing through a natural wonder like this.

LOCATION 2: YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK - El Cap
El Capitan – Symbol of the Yosemite National Park and main attraction for an elite group of climbers from around the world. Christoph and Roger also have the El Cap on their USA Roadshow list. For many years, the two SALEWA  alpineXtrem Team athletes have been planning to climb the 1,000-metre monolith.

LOCATION 3: SIERRA MOUNTAINS - Bishop
Bishop is the dream location for every bouldering fan and for very good reason:
Granite blocks in all shapes and sizes are scattered throughout the area in the Californian Sierra Mountains. Naturally, Roger and Christoph have stopped here on their USA Road Trip, as an alternative to long, tough crack climbing in Zion National Park.

4.STATION: RED ROCKS - Desert Gold Crack
Desert Gold Crack is the most spectacular single-pitch route in the Red Rocks. After a 30-metre vertical climb through the crack you arrive at an extremely difficult overhang. At the boulder where the vertical and horizontal sections meet, your feet no longer fit into the crack, posing a huge challenge. 

LOCATION 5: YOSEMITE NATIONALPARK - Separate Reality
Separate Reality is the classic crack route. It is a one pitch 10 metres above the ground and an 8-metre horizontal roof crack stretches above the Yosemite Valley. Wölfgang Güllich was the first person to free solo the route and Christoph and Roger are proud to conjure up some magic in tracing his steps along the rock.

Roger Schüli, Swiss top-class all-rounder: "Alpine activity up and down the mountain."

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